Кругосветка 2008
Tunisia-Libya: back and Forth… And yet there!

Tunisia-Libya: back and Forth… And yet there!

2008 год

The separation from Europe was a little sad. After all, for a few days spent with the crew of the yacht “Chokan Valikhanov”, we became friends and felt like one team. Maybe one day we’ll cross the border from the homeland…



The closer I drove to Marseille pier, where I had to go to Tunisia, the more clearly felt the heartbeat. Suddenly again the troubles will begin? Then there’s Vitaly bad joke to say: you will sail to Tunisia, but there again, some kind of terrorist attack – and have problems of Kazakh biker! But here I am on the ship. To sail for almost a day and a half…

It would seem that the time to calmly sit down and journal, but there it was! The only thing you can do on the ship, is to lay flat on my back in the cabin, as if the slightest attempt to get up you turns full. The powerful storm did not stop for 25 hours! I’ve never seen anything like it… Closer to shore, we found out the cause of a different night noise: it turns out, passing Corsica, our ship got a small hole, so that the midnight crew has made repairs.

В задумках

In ideas

After leaving the ship in the customs and border zone, the first thing I hid far in the trunk of his favorite hat – not to attract attention. God forbid you remember the Tunisian border guards, as two years ago, I was deported in a cold winter Marseille along with a bike and a company of convicts and suspicious types (even those in handcuffs!)…

A 15-minute walk across the border seemed like an eternity to me. And here it is – Tunisia! Now for real. But at the hotel only to find which it was possible far not at once, I fully came to and realized that the road to Libya, Egypt and further open.

Tunisia itself, I imagined a few others. Half a hundred years ago, this country was a French colony, and France’s influence is still felt in politics and in the economy of Tunisia. Comfort and coziness are present only in the Northern, tourist part of the country, but closer to the middle part, in the area of the city of Sfax, begins a completely different country. After 100 km highway ended-and began the usual, with elements of extreme road. Movement faster than 50 km/h is forbidden, but all are worn under a hundred. Despite the fact that most of the machines can be safely attributed to the category of “retro”. There are even cars of the 50s-60s years! In-General, trash full. Only now I began to understand why this is on the road much COP (although the situation in the country stable!). Apparently, because, that on roads thousands of machines, which one path – on the dustbin of, and they, nevertheless, continue to its long life.

Караван в кузове

Caravan in the back

The institution in Medenine, where we settled for the night, least of all resembled a hotel. More than a flophouse for the poor and homeless. Tormented for two hours trying to fall asleep, I only just found a comfortable position, covered with a biker jacket as it started a real police RAID is with the purpose of checking documents. Probably because of my terribly brutal looking (and I was very angry!), the police didn’t bother to take me out, but for a long time in broken English and French, asked me with a heaven I fell down. Still, I was left alone, the RAID continued till 3 nights. In the morning, the colored chef of the hotel politely asked how did you sleep? Humorist! They must have it in order…

All the time that I went to Libya, on the streets of villages occurs slaughter sheep. It is impossible to breathe – all the smoke and smell of burning meat. Around-barbecues, well, I think now barbecue taste… As it is not so! It turned out to be area of the wholesale trade in lamb. And meat for a shish kebab they are not marinated and barbecues kindle only for some prescribed ritual. Well, Yes, hunger – not the aunt, have to eat their Shawarma and some sort of sandwich, only instead of meat, put grinded into powder meat. Tea here, apparently, is not used to serve. Why, when there is “Cola”and ” Fanta”? And when I insisted that they bring me a Cup of tea, a bag of “Lipton” seemed to be soaked with some medications. Again had to content with what they give…



As in Morocco, it seems that this is a country of men. And more! Women, even in a burqa, not in sight. Men sit in groups along the road and see who went where. Apparently, in this, too, there is some [Kayf]…

Again I was stopped by police officers, this time from national security service. Took my passport and on the radio sent a request for my data. I was incarcerated, what if their computer showed me information about my last deportation? In order to escape, the police began to distribute their business cards with autographs, Souvenirs… And one of the officers responded by showing me a photo where he, along with footballer Zinedine Zidane. Says, it is his brother, they had lived in Algeria. Give me.

In-General, any answer from the center concerning me they didn’t wait, – and I quietly went to catch up with our pickup. The weather meanwhile had deteriorated in the eyes. Fine drizzling rain turned into a real downpour. Temperatures from +20 down to +15. And I had nowhere to hide, and that was soaking wet. There’s another water baptism in this motorcycle ride! But this is all a trifle compared to the fact that there is practically no place to dry clothes. It seems to dry it will be just for me…



Пока, всё гут

Bye, all ok.

Уже угрозы

Already threats

30 km to the Libyan border decided to stop for the night to pass the border in the morning and go to their capital – Tripoli. In the village found the Internet. Vitaly wanted to send videos and photos, but the line was too weak, so I checked their mailbox and retreated to the shelter.

Until the most Libya so and not met nor one biker-trucker. Perhaps, when goes to Petrukhin, the rest repose… Joke! But the French jeep not to measure! All going to drive across the Sahara.

Got a message from a friend, a biker of Arthur Ardavichus – that the race Paris – Dakar for the first time in its history canceled due to threats from the terrorist group “al-Qaeda”, intending to make the race route a few attacks. The horror! All athletes in the gloom. Support me, wish luck.

And now about the main thing:

1. Right in the neutral zone between Tunisia and Libya, an attempt was made on my bike! While I was issued entry documents, standing alone in my BMW was “bumps” Tunisian pickup. Mirror – pieces, side – dented, the mood could not be worse… Reassure ourselves that it is a baptism of fire, in the way, and, if so, well, not at speed. The driver with a suffering look makes it clear that there is nothing to take from it for the accident. Disagree, shake hands, he gives me his home address, he says, can visit him on occasion. Well, it’ll have to be repaired…

2. To come to Libya is almost a feat! Since November, they have imposed strict restrictions on entry into their country. In addition to the visa (which is not easy to get!), there should be a clear additional translation in Arabic from the office where the visa was issued. Some kind of insanity! Visas issued to Libyans, but translations are not. It turns out that they issue visas, knowing that they will not be launched into the country. The French, the Germans, the Danes are nervous, but the border guards and customs are as calm as tanks. We crossed the border twice from Tunisia to Libya – and twice we were brought back. We had to ask our Ambassador to Tripoli, Yerzhan Makash, for help. His two-day talks on the phone with the border guards and the Libyan authorities have not been successful. Then the Ambassador personally came to the border. After eight hours of negotiations, the Libyan side has completely denied us entry into their territory. We had already gathered to return to Tunisia once again, when Zamir, assistant Yerzhan, suddenly came running, and we were glad to hear that, after a conversation in elevated tones and the urgent demand of our Ambassador to comply with the agreements between the countries, it was decided to launch us in Libya. Two hours spent on execution of documents and production of Libyan number plates for the car and motorcycle and we are in Libya!

I want to say that during the three days we spent on the border between Tunisia and Libya, we have acquired many friends and associates. Who learned what kind of country – Kazakhstan-and where it is, and realized that the people of Kazakhstan are able to achieve the goal.

170 km from the border had to go in the dark. But this discomfort I did not even feel inspired by the victory in solving a big problem. And ahead, meanwhile, lights of Tripoli seemed..

Hello, biker Petrukhin!

Tripoli, 14 January 2008

  • Category : 2008
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