2006 год

Decided to go into the jungle, although readers of “Komsomolskaya Pravda” asked me to visit the caves of Pak-Oh, but she’s not going anywhere, especially since it’s a standard tourist event – although, of course, and very interesting. The question arose, with whom to go into the jungle. I have a telephone number of the Consul of The Russian Embassy in Laos. I was told in Almaty that he would help with the guide. So, calling the Consul Elshad say about themselves and about their goals. It’s OK. He gives me the conductor’s phone number, his name is Visay. We met, we talked. He is 30 years old, he also studied in Russia, knows 5 languages. His dream is to buy a good motorcycle and a pickup truck. Only after that he will think about creating a family. In General, Vixay gladly volunteered to escort me through the jungle – with the condition that I feed him, sing and pay a motorbike hire. Resolved, that in the morning at 10.00 meet at my hotel. In the meantime, I sat down at the diary to describe everything (be sure to forget all the time if not write!).

Alex came (the hotel Manager), brought two Newspapers, and there is already a report about me. One newspaper – “Lao news”, the second – “New Laos”. The first newspaper in General writes that now they will cover my trip to the finish. Nice! But you need to go to bed, because tomorrow-a trip through the jungle. But there it was! Firstly, the air conditioning broke down, and this is equivalent to a superextreme. While the master repaired to the room flew so many bugs and insects that have long thrown them out. Only finished like, I hear a whistle over my head, and it’s a big lizard on the ceiling right above me. The first thing that came to my mind – though I have not fell. Shuganul her seemingly fled to the hole in the ceiling. After an hour, whistling again. I took my camera, photographed her, and she, not peeling from the ceiling, jammed a large butterfly on me not paying attention. In General, slept with the light on until morning.

Breakfast is very interesting: a glass of water, a glass of tea, a glass of juice, noodle soup. Thought I would bring eggs or butter or anything like that.

Visay Drove Up. Said that if you go on the familiar jungle, you need to breed with the soldiers who are not allowed to go down this road. Will have to give 200 000 bits (20$) – and everything will be OK. Asks me for the permission to with him went his friend (he will pay her expenses). We stopped by. Her name is Ali. Somehow, I asked her name. It turned out to be Maha Mai di. I told her I’d call her Mohamed Ali now. Agreed. All joke understood.

While traveling to Ving Ham, Vixay took my video camera and filmed everything himself, and his girlfriend was taking pictures with my camera. Apparently, he knows his job. He often meets Russian tourists and accompanies them throughout the country. He has no other business, although in the future he wants to have his own travel Agency to receive tourists.

Finally swerved off the road and went on military trail. After 5 kilometres we rested in a makeshift barrier. Of nowhere came a soldier and strongly suggested to go in the opposite direction until Vixay has not resolved the issue in our favor (of course financially). The soldier took my card, but did not take pictures with me. Visay said they were afraid of everything.

The territory on which our route passes is the place where skirmishes took place between the South and the North. On top of that, American soldiers were also here during the famous war in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. It is seen that Vixay here went more than once, and sense of humor to it not to occupy. Although, he says, there were many cases when tourists and residents exploding mines on this road. But that was long ago and now the chance of stumbling on a landmine is very small. To my proposal to move this trail to the other Vixay strongly objected. Interestingly, in the jungle a lot of insects that need to be wary, but in the afternoon during the heat, they probably hide.

The nearest village is 20 km away, but with our speed of 30-40 km per hour and frequent stops it is still far away. Pray to God not rained, otherwise, all… Road clay, will deliver her to a pulp and drive will be impossible. I really regretted not removed the Luggage from the bike at such a heavy and big bike here to go is very difficult. But the guide Vixay said nothing. However, the rain began.

Motorcycles have left on the road, themselves hid under my motorcycle tent. Literally after 30 minutes the downpour ended, and there was a strong evaporation – heat and humidity. I remember Venezuela when I was in a similar situation. Then I miraculously got to the nearest village, where I hid from the heat. A couple of kilometres we got near the river wild Buffalo, we drove up closer and I photographed them. By the way, when we passed the soldier, he warned that roam close to 3 elephant, so we should be careful.

Stopped in the village, everyone was very surprised and delighted, that by them passing bikers are travelers. There are only 30 houses, and all residents are engaged in one thing: make baskets, pots, hats and spoons – bamboo and bamboo leaves. Of course, I bought them a hat and immediately put. Great! I was surrounded by kids. Let them get on the bike. Took pictures on video, photo. Decided not to go further and not to tempt fate – ended up staying the night, although the road remained a good 30 kilometers.

Settled on a lodging for the night. We were given a room in which to store rice. Actually, it was kind of lame, tolerant. And this couple… but to me it was due to love for her thrice, but she never gave him an answer. As he explained to me later, she likes him, but he is poor, and she made an offer of rich man, though married, but who promised her to divorce his first wife. A vicious circle! I think she went with Visay on a farewell trip before she left. And he, likely, this understands and accepts for granted. And Ali, by Lao standards, is quite nice and apparently calculating. Well, whatever they get – they are then I will report on the Internet.

Half the night I didn’t sleep… Visay and Ali walked through the village on their amorous Affairs, and I listened to the sounds of the night jungle. In-General, was a little creepy, although I like and not from timid dozen. In the morning we were fed rice soup and dried bananas. Here already know Visay because it brought many here, and meet it as native. They refueled with gasoline, in my opinion, it is mixed with diesel fuel, because my bike has earned, like diesel.

Extreme accompanied us all today. Night, when rain’s washed away all the way and I could not avoid the pit. In it and stuck. While I’ve found, it took two hours. I was very afraid for my grip, because in such situations in Africa and in America I had to change it completely. It seems there were, but after 200 meters Vixay slipped and filled up the bike. While Mohammad Ali burnt my leg badly on the exhaust pipe and cried a lot. I know what a burn on a motorcycle pipe remains for life, but, of course, said nothing to her. In addition, we twice drove into a dead end. Visage I say, go, say, back the same road, and he says that there is a good road in the direction of Vietnam. After an hour of wandering we found the right road. I just remembered, how we with boys on “Minsk” also drove along the forest trails. And fell, and burned, and cried, and laughed.…

Already at the exit from the jungle was the most extreme event. We stopped to fix my Luggage once again and to fix flags because they constantly cling to trees. One flagpole at me completely collapsed, and we decided to insert a stick and to wind up with an adhesive tape while we reach the house. I started to break the branches on the tree to make a good stick – and immediately cried out from the sudden prick in his left hand. Vixay asks what happened, I told him that was impaled on a sharp twig, and suddenly like a scalded cat bounce, because I see that it was not a knot, and black-and-yellow snake is pretty impressive. Interestingly, at the time of the bite, Ali was taking pictures of me breaking off a branch.

Visay said these snakes were biting, but not poisonous, and then boldly pulled her out of the bushes and killed. I said, ” did you have to do that?”. He says, ” Yes. If a snake bites a person, according to our customs, it must be destroyed”. Ali treated my wound, then said there was no problem. Actually, I was wearing a long-sleeved shirt, and she tore it off. I’m not giving it to anyone now. Frankly, I was sorry for the snake… I remembered that when I slept in the open air on the border of Mexico and the United States, in the morning I found a snake curled up like me. What I was terrified! After all, she could have crawled on me at night… I took a picture of my victim, picked her up, she was surprisingly warm, but even inanimate terrifies. The guys say we are going to Laksao, still, like, need a shot. After 4 km I stopped at the drugstore (there was also a first-aid post) was injected, given to drink a whole glass of some liquid, resembling sunflower oil. The wound was simply treated with peroxide. The money is not taken, gave me his card, written on it in English, I’m a biker-world wider. They asked me to sign it…

In Laksao I met the first travellers on my way to Asia. It was two guys from Holland. They were riding bicycles from Vietnam to Thailand. Socialised. Ask, why one, without aides? I say they help me in every country. Here in Laos, Vixay. They immediately started a conversation with Visay about the further route of their route. In short, Hang without work not will remain. Dine together. Decided, that I’m gonna stay in Laksao, and on the morning’m going in Vietnam. They return to Vientiane (the capital of Laos).

They said goodbye like old friends. We agreed that if I do not get from Vietnam to Cambodia, then be sure to meet again in Laos – because I still go to Malaysia through Thailand.

This turned out to be extreme-walk through the jungle. Of course, it is difficult for me now to digest all this and realize what has been passed. Although for shrug our shoulders just so many, that all of this I perceive for granted…

In Laksao found a hotel for only three dollars, so even with air conditioning. Cell signal here is fine. Night called friends: Valikhan Kosumbaev, Damir Ashigaliev, Edik Smirnov. Worry, that long not was on ties. Chatted almost 1.5 hours. Strongly support. All – they real my bikers-brothers.

In the morning drove up to the border of Vietnam. I want once again to say good words about the General sponsor – JSC “Kazkommertsbank”. Their VISA and MasterCard cards really help out my payments at gas stations, hotels and shops. Well, and to my General information sponsor – the Komsomolskaya Pravda Kazakhstan newspaper – and to all its readers big SALAM!

• Category : 2006